Viognier, Italian-Style

When wine drinkers think of the white grape, Viognier, the first place that comes to mind is the Rhone region of France. Also produced in North America, Australia, and South Africa, Italy is the last place I thought I would find this grape. This week, I was surprised and delighted to discover a local Viognier offered on the menu at a restaurant in Orvieto.

Just exactly where Viognier originated is basically unknown; it is thought the ancient Romans might have brought it to France. As recently as 2004, a study at UC Davis did a DNA profile, discovering Viognier closely matched a Piedmont grape, Freisa. Surprisingly, it is also a genetic cousin to Nebbiolo.


The restaurant we had lunch at in Orvieto was Il Malandrino Bistrot. We decided to eat light, ordering a few antipasti. The wine we selected was a Viognier from a local winery, Madonna del Latte. Located between Orvieto and Lake Bolzano, the winery has been in operation since 2000, currently producing all organic wines. 

On the nose and palate, there were citrus fruit, peach, and apricot notes. The palate was also smooth, with a refreshing finish. It paired well with the fish appetizer we ordered. I thought it was an exceptional pairing with our flavorful cheese appetizer.

Unfortunately, I did not have more time to explore other wines from Madonna del Latte, doing one of their winery tastings. In addition to the Viognier, they produce a Cabernet Franc, which, again, I would not think would be produced here. They also do a Pinot Nero (Noir) which is done, but rare.

If you are ever in Orvieto, book a winery tour at Madonna del Latte, followed by dinner at Il Malandrino Bistrot. It will be a most enjoyable and memorable day!

Cin Cin!

Donatella Cinelli Colombini: Wines of Tuscany

This past week at Fattoria del Colle in Trequanda, Siena, I had the pleasure of imbibing many of the amazing wines from the Fattoria, as well as from their other winery, Casato Prime Donne. Each evening we enjoyed a different bottle with our carefully and lovingly prepared Tuscan meal. During our first full afternoon, we were also taken on a tour of the Fattoria property and cantina, while learning the history of the owner, Donatella Cinelli Colombini, her family, and also sampling their wines.

The wines from both properties are all organic, grapes hand-picked with only the rain to irrigate and help them grow. In the cellar, they use bigger French oak barrels from Burgundy for a slower aging process.


At dinner the first evening, we had one of the only white wines we would drink all week, Sanchimento IGT Toscana Bianco. Made with the Traminer grapes grown around the chapel at the Fattoria winery, this limited production white is named after the patron saint of the chapel, San Chimento. Typically a northern grape from the Alsace (Gewürztraminer), the wine is aromatic and spicy. 

The next day we toured the Fattoria, ending with a tasting of two of their wines. The first wine, Cerentola DOC Orcia, is a blend of Foglia Tonda, a rare red grape indigenous to central Tuscany, and Sangiovese, the most common grape in this region. Blended together, the two grapes bring balance to the wine; the Foglia Tonda smoothness and the Sangiovese, tannins. 

The second wine we sampled was their Brunello di Montalcino from the Casato Prime Donne winery. It is at this winery, where the all female staff, produce the Montalcino wine from 100% Sangiovese grapes. This is the longest aged wine and released for sale four and half years after harvest. Full-bodied with 15% ABV, this wine has amazing tannic structure and balance.

That evening at dinner, we opened bottles of their Chianti Superiore. Grown and produced at the Fattoria, this wine is named Superiore because of the low-yield of the grapes used. Dominantly Sangiovese, small bunches of other varieties are used to maintain the Chianti tradition of blending. 

The next evening, and during our “happy hour” events, we opened bottles of Leone Rosso DOC Orcia, which is one of my favorite wines at the Fattoria. A blend of Sangiovese and Merlot, which would typically get the classification of “Super Tuscan”. Since the wine is produced under the DOC Orcia appellation and not IGT, it escaped the fate of Super Tuscan classification. Well-balanced and smooth, this wine is perfect on its own or with food.

The following evening we opened their Rosso di Montalcino from the Casato di Prime Donne winery. Made from the same Sangiovese grapes as the Brunello, this wine is meant to be consumed earlier. The evening we opened this bottled we also sampled the local Pecorino cheeses, fresh and aged. This wine was a perfect pairing with the aged Pecorino.

If you ever find yourself in Siena, be sure to stop in for a wine tasting or plan an overnight stay at the Fattoria, immersing yourself in the wine, food, and culture of Tuscany. You will not be disappointed!

Cin Cin!

WineRipi Cantina Diffusa

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In the southern province of Frosinone, there is a little known town named Ripi. At the recommendation of my friend, Mia, we went to visit her family’s wine bar last evening. Open for just one year, WineRipi Cantina Diffusa, is a tiny location with a lot to offer.

Owned and operated by husband and wife team, Raffaele Cerbone, a sommelier, and Melania Persichilli, the wine bar is located on Viale Umberto I, 28 in the heart of Ripi. A native of Ripi, Melania met Raffaele while they were both serving in the military in Afghanistan in 2006. Raffaele is originally from Australia, moving to Italy at the age of 13 with his family.

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Last evening we settled on a bottle red Cesanese wine, which is made from a grape indigenous to the area. Traditionally used to make sweet wines that are frizzante (slightly sparkling), Cesanese is light-bodied and also used for blending. Raffaele was kind enough to spend some time with us, chatting about the business and the various grapes grown in the area. Cabernet Sauvignon is another red grape that is planted and grows well in the region. The whites commonly grown are Malvasia and Passerina. Malvasia is often used for blending to add flavor and texture to other whites. Passerina is best enjoyed while it is young; the ones from this region tend to be full, rich, with a creamy texture.

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Raffaele and Melania serve outstanding aperitivi foods at the wine bar. Because it was Friday evening, we enjoyed a nice array of fish hors d’oeuvres. They hope to expand the business, educating people about the area and what it has to offer, regarding wine, food, and traditions.

If you are ever in this area of Italy, halfway between Rome and Naples, it is worth a stop in Ripi for a glass of wine, an aperitivo and a chat with Raffaele and Melania, who will make you feel most welcomed!