When wine drinkers think of the white grape, Viognier, the first place that comes to mind is the Rhone region of France. Also produced in North America, Australia, and South Africa, Italy is the last place I thought I would find this grape. This week, I was surprised and delighted to discover a local Viognier offered on the menu at a restaurant in Orvieto.
Just exactly where Viognier originated is basically unknown; it is thought the ancient Romans might have brought it to France. As recently as 2004, a study at UC Davis did a DNA profile, discovering Viognier closely matched a Piedmont grape, Freisa. Surprisingly, it is also a genetic cousin to Nebbiolo.
The restaurant we had lunch at in Orvieto was Il Malandrino Bistrot. We decided to eat light, ordering a few antipasti. The wine we selected was a Viognier from a local winery, Madonna del Latte. Located between Orvieto and Lake Bolzano, the winery has been in operation since 2000, currently producing all organic wines.
On the nose and palate, there were citrus fruit, peach, and apricot notes. The palate was also smooth, with a refreshing finish. It paired well with the fish appetizer we ordered. I thought it was an exceptional pairing with our flavorful cheese appetizer.
Unfortunately, I did not have more time to explore other wines from Madonna del Latte, doing one of their winery tastings. In addition to the Viognier, they produce a Cabernet Franc, which, again, I would not think would be produced here. They also do a Pinot Nero (Noir) which is done, but rare.
If you are ever in Orvieto, book a winery tour at Madonna del Latte, followed by dinner at Il Malandrino Bistrot. It will be a most enjoyable and memorable day!
This past week at Fattoria del Colle in Trequanda, Siena, I had the pleasure of imbibing many of the amazing wines from the Fattoria, as well as from their other winery, Casato Prime Donne. Each evening we enjoyed a different bottle with our carefully and lovingly prepared Tuscan meal. During our first full afternoon, we were also taken on a tour of the Fattoria property and cantina, while learning the history of the owner, Donatella Cinelli Colombini, her family, and also sampling their wines.
The wines from both properties are all organic, grapes hand-picked with only the rain to irrigate and help them grow. In the cellar, they use bigger French oak barrels from Burgundy for a slower aging process.
At dinner the first evening, we had one of the only white wines we would drink all week, Sanchimento IGT Toscana Bianco. Made with the Traminer grapes grown around the chapel at the Fattoria winery, this limited production white is named after the patron saint of the chapel, San Chimento. Typically a northern grape from the Alsace (Gewürztraminer), the wine is aromatic and spicy.
The next day we toured the Fattoria, ending with a tasting of two of their wines. The first wine, Cerentola DOC Orcia, is a blend of Foglia Tonda, a rare red grape indigenous to central Tuscany, and Sangiovese, the most common grape in this region. Blended together, the two grapes bring balance to the wine; the Foglia Tonda smoothness and the Sangiovese, tannins.
The second wine we sampled was their Brunello di Montalcino from the Casato Prime Donne winery. It is at this winery, where the all female staff, produce the Montalcino wine from 100% Sangiovese grapes. This is the longest aged wine and released for sale four and half years after harvest. Full-bodied with 15% ABV, this wine has amazing tannic structure and balance.
That evening at dinner, we opened bottles of their Chianti Superiore. Grown and produced at the Fattoria, this wine is named Superiore because of the low-yield of the grapes used. Dominantly Sangiovese, small bunches of other varieties are used to maintain the Chianti tradition of blending.
The next evening, and during our “happy hour” events, we opened bottles of Leone Rosso DOC Orcia, which is one of my favorite wines at the Fattoria. A blend of Sangiovese and Merlot, which would typically get the classification of “Super Tuscan”. Since the wine is produced under the DOC Orcia appellation and not IGT, it escaped the fate of Super Tuscan classification. Well-balanced and smooth, this wine is perfect on its own or with food.
The following evening we opened their Rosso di Montalcino from the Casato di Prime Donne winery. Made from the same Sangiovese grapes as the Brunello, this wine is meant to be consumed earlier. The evening we opened this bottled we also sampled the local Pecorino cheeses, fresh and aged. This wine was a perfect pairing with the aged Pecorino.
If you ever find yourself in Siena, be sure to stop in for a wine tasting or plan an overnight stay at the Fattoria, immersing yourself in the wine, food, and culture of Tuscany. You will not be disappointed!
In the southern province of Frosinone, there is a little known town named Ripi. At the recommendation of my friend, Mia, we went to visit her family’s wine bar last evening. Open for just one year, WineRipi Cantina Diffusa, is a tiny location with a lot to offer.
Owned and operated by husband and wife team, Raffaele Cerbone, a sommelier, and Melania Persichilli, the wine bar is located on Viale Umberto I, 28 in the heart of Ripi. A native of Ripi, Melania met Raffaele while they were both serving in the military in Afghanistan in 2006. Raffaele is originally from Australia, moving to Italy at the age of 13 with his family.
Last evening we settled on a bottle red Cesanese wine, which is made from a grape indigenous to the area. Traditionally used to make sweet wines that are frizzante (slightly sparkling), Cesanese is light-bodied and also used for blending. Raffaele was kind enough to spend some time with us, chatting about the business and the various grapes grown in the area. Cabernet Sauvignon is another red grape that is planted and grows well in the region. The whites commonly grown are Malvasia and Passerina. Malvasia is often used for blending to add flavor and texture to other whites. Passerina is best enjoyed while it is young; the ones from this region tend to be full, rich, with a creamy texture.
Raffaele and Melania serve outstanding aperitivi foods at the wine bar. Because it was Friday evening, we enjoyed a nice array of fish hors d’oeuvres. They hope to expand the business, educating people about the area and what it has to offer, regarding wine, food, and traditions.
If you are ever in this area of Italy, halfway between Rome and Naples, it is worth a stop in Ripi for a glass of wine, an aperitivo and a chat with Raffaele and Melania, who will make you feel most welcomed!
Along my wine journey, I have led and attended many tastings; several in store, at wineries, some private, and others at events. For the most part, they all work the same, depending on the size of the group and the environment. At events, attendees like to drink and network, while in store and at wineries, there is more of an interest in learning about the wines.
Chances are, if you like wine, you have visited a winery or attended a tasting at a store or other venue. Whichever tasting environment you choose to attend, there are tips to make your experience more pleasant for everyone.
Do not wear strong scents. Perfumes, aftershaves, and colognes can interfere when trying to appreciate the aromas of wines. This also includes the odors of cigarettes, cigars, and other smoke shop items that have recently been declared legal in some states.
Eat something in advance. While some store and event tastings may offer small snacks, it is best to have food in your stomach when beginning a wine tasting. If available, take advantage of the snacks between each pour and have water available so you stay hydrated. I call this the “Catholic Method” of drinking, alternating between water and wine.
Plan out your tasting experience. A lot of venues will do this for you, suggesting which wines to start and end with. When I plan a tasting, I start with a welcoming bottle of sparkling. I then pour whites, starting with the lighter varietals first, moving to the fuller-bodied next. Reds are then opened in the same order. I will sometimes end with a sweet/dessert wine. You can certainly skip the ones you do not like, but best not to skip around.
Swirl, Smell, Sip, Sense! To have the best experience at a wine tasting, you do not want to just dive right in and drink the wine. It is best to first gently swirl the wine around in the glass, releasing the aromas. Then smell the wine, holding the glass under your nose, pulling it away slowly. Next, take a sip of the wine, moving it around your palate, allowing the flavors to emerge. It takes time for this last step, but through practice you will be able to sense particular aromas and flavors in wine. Do not get frustrated if you do not pick up on them right away.
Ask questions. As the wines are being poured, chances are something is being conveyed about each wine; you might also be handed a sheet of information. Don’t be shy to ask specific questions about the wines or the winery. It is actually fun to hear the story behind a bottle.
Have fun! There are very serious wine tasters out there and you will occasionally encounter them on your wine journey. In life, it is important to have a semblance of humor in most situations; this is one of them. Enjoy yourself, but not to the point that you become “that person” or “that group”.
Most important, drink sensibly! It is a good idea in these tasting situations to have a designated driver. Remember, it is not a bar so you will be served small pours but they do add up. It is helpful to have water on hand (“Catholic Method”) and to know your limits.
Over the past few months, a friend and I have been exploring a few of our local wine bars. A concept created in Europe, wine bars became trendy here in the United States in early 2000, with various locations cropping up in major metropolitan areas around the country. Since then, wine bars in various formats have emerged and now compete with bars and restaurants in popularity.
The basic idea of a wine bar, of course, centers around the wine, with a limited menu of beer options and cocktails. For the most part, the wine choices are wide-ranging, offering selections from around the world, while a small percentage choose to pay homage to a wine from a particular region. The food served is traditionally simple fare; small plates, cheeses, olives, charcuterie and desserts. Very few places actually have full kitchens to accommodate lunch and dinner menus.
The main concept of this bar is in the name. For $24, you can choose three wines from a list of about thirty; they include red, white, rosé, sparkling, and port. You are served three, 3-ounce glasses of your selections; these represent your flight. The food menu is very limited; it includes an array of olives, hummus, cheeses, charcuterie, salads, pizza and desserts. We stopped in during the summer; it was an all white flight for me! It consisted of a Sancerre (Sauvignon Blanc) from France, an Albariño from Spain and a White Burgundy (Chardonnay) from France; all three, good choices. The Sancerre was crisp, with melon, apple and citrus aromas and flavors. The Albariño offered citrus and orchard fruit on the nose and palate, with a slight floral finish. The well-balanced Chardonnay had apple and pear flavors and aromas; it did have a slight oakiness which I did not mind. We also split a glass of the summer favorite, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc; as usual easy-drinking, fresh herbs and tangy citrus on the nose and palate.
My flight at Flights Bar.
From the food menu, we ordered olives, cheese and charcuterie, which was more than enough to eat. They also have a bottled beer menu, limited cocktails and an extensive whiskey (who knew!) menu that can be ordered in a flight as well. Overall it was a fun experience and comfortable environment, which we plan to revisit for a red flight before the hot temps return.
This establishment is situated in an old house, tucked away off the main street, and not very well-lit. When I finally found the parking lot, I still could not find my way in; I thought I was entering a private home uninvited. Some upgraded signage and lighting would certainly help. Once inside, the interior was not very welcoming; dark, with small, low tables (we used two) and uncomfortable cushioned benches. I realize they are going for a certain “look”, but for me it is about feeling relaxed.
On a positive note, they have a nice wine menu; their claim to fame being they serve wines from small growers/producers who practice organic, biodynamic and sustainable viticulture. At the recommendation of the server we ordered a bottle of the Kerner, a white wine from Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy. To go with that, we ordered their popular fried Brussels Sprouts with hot honey and pistachios, the Poutine and an assorted cheese board. The Kerner was a great recommendation; dry, with some floral and green fruit notes and the sprouts were a definite winner.
Kerner at Pour wine bar.
Overall, it was an interesting experience, one I unfortunately do not have to relive anytime soon.
Vinoteca, or enoteca, in Italian literally means wine shop. Unlike our wine shops, in Italy, you can kick back with a glass of wine or purchase a bottle to drink at home. Modern day vinoteche have become more bistro-like, serving snacks as well. The actual word in Italian for a wine bar is vineria.
Negroamaro and Negroamaro Rosato at Mima Vinoteca.
Mima Vinoteca, touts themselves as a restaurant and wine bar. Their wine menu is 100% Italian, while their food menu is a little bit more eclectic, combining classic Italian favorites with the latest trends. We went on a Tuesday night, which offers Wine Down discount pours for $7.00 a glass. I believe four wines were available; we settled on the Negroamaro Rosato. One of my favorite red varietals, I found the rosato most enjoyable. From Puglia in Southern, Italy, this was a dry, refreshing wine with red berry and ripe fruit notes. I followed it with a glass of straight-up Negroamaro off their regular menu, which was a major contrast to the rosato. Teeming with tannins, this full-bodied red offered notes of cherries and currants, with a nice smooth finish.
Grilled Octopus at Mima Vinoteca.
From the seasonal menu, we ordered the Crispy Truffled Chick Peas, which were amazing, and a nice-sized portion of the delicious Risotto Balls. In addition, we each ordered a salad. The Baby Arugula Salad was a combination of all my favorite ingredients; arugula, artichokes, heart of palm, cheese and tomatoes. The manager very nicely brought over a plate of their Grilled Octopus on the house. This dish was served with paprika roasted potatoes and drizzled with a delightful chili-honey. Even though I was somewhat full, I could not resist trying the Warm Panettone Bread Pudding, as I am a big fan of both panettone and bread pudding. Fortunately, it was a manageable piece and not at all disappointing.
Mima Vinoteca also has a small craft beer menu, hand-selecting beers from New York and beyond, as well as a small cocktail menu. They have happy hour and specials all week long and serve brunch and lunch Tuesday-Sunday. Overall it was an enjoyable experience; I would be happy to return again next season to see what is on the menu!
I hope you feel inspired to venture out and investigate the local wine bars in your area. If you do, please share your experiences.
This week, a friend and I went to a local Greek restaurant for dinner. Planning ahead, we knew the wine selections by the glass would be pricey; we opted to BYOB and pay the corkage fee. Offering to bring the wine, I chose a Greek red blend I have enjoyed in the past. I thought it would be a good match with the theme of the evening, as well as a good wine choice with dinner.
Since entering the European Union, Greece has experienced a surge in the wine world with some indigenous and not very well-known grapes of their own. There is, however, over a 4,000 year wine history in Greece, dating back to the Middles Ages, when they exported wine around the Western world. This went dormant for some time due to heavy taxation imposed on wine exportation.
Retsina is the most commonly known Greek wine, with over a 2,000 year history. A white wine typically made from Greece’s most widely planted grape, Savatiano, the wine was sealed in porous clay amphorae with thick resin from the Aleppo pine tree. This gave the wine a distinct flavor, often compared to turpentine (yum!). Modern day winemakers have taken a crack at retsina production and have supposedly made it more palatable.
The red I chose for our Greek dinner is a blend from the Rapsani region, located on the slopes of Mount Olympus. The three grapes in this blend are:
Xinomavro (Ke-see-no-mav-roh) – This is the dominant grape of the blend. Dark cherry fruit, licorice, allspice, and high-tannins make this grape very similar to the Nebbiolo grape of Italy.
Krassato – Exclusively used for blending, this dark-skinned grape is not widely grown in Greece.
Stavroto – Another exclusive blending grape, this late-ripening grape is responsible for the ruby-red color of the blend. It also mellows the more hearty Xinomavro grape.
Red Blend paired with moussaka.
We paired the blend with an appetizer of saganaki, a Greek fried cheese. The full-bodied wine was a perfect match with the tanginess of the cheese dish. Our main course was moussaka, which is a traditional dish of eggplant, potato, ground meat and spices. The rich tannins of the wine blended well with the many flavors of this delicious classic entrée.
There are other indigenous grapes located throughout the country that are worth trying –and fun to pronounce. Here is a brief list:
Agiorgitiko (Ah-your-yeek-tee-ko) – This is another red grape, similar to Merlot. It hails from Nemea, a region in Peloponnese. Wines produced from this grape are full-bodied with flavors of sweet raspberry, black currant, and nutmeg with smooth tannins.
Assyrtiko (Ah-sear-tee-koh) – A white grape originally from the island of Santorini, these wines are fruity, with a touch of minerality on the finish. Those labeled as “Nykteri” (nith-terry) are always oak aged. The wines are full-bodied with notes of lemon, cream and pineapple.
Malagousia (Mala-goo-zee-yah) – This white grape was almost extinct until a winery in northern Greece breathed new life into when it started growing it again. The wines from this grape offer notes of peach, lime and orange and can be either dry or sweet.
